Location: Church of St Thomas A Becket, Heptonstall Date: 16th November 2013
Camera: Samsung Galaxy Tablet
High above the bohemian valley of Hebden Bridge, where the air grows thin and the wind carries the scent of gritstone and damp moorland, sits the medieval village of Heptonstall. It is a place where time doesn't just slow down; it feels as though it has been deliberately tethered to the 13th century. At the heart of this atmospheric hilltop hamlet lies its most striking landmark: the skeletal remains of the Church of St Thomas à Becket.
Walking through the ancient stone gateway into the graveyard, you aren’t just entering a place of rest—you’re stepping into a layered history of rebellion, tragedy, and literary legend.
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| The Ruins of the Church of St Thomas à Becket, Heptonstall |
A Church Built on Grit and Resistance
The original church of St Thomas à Becket was founded between 1256 and 1260. Dedicated to the martyred Archbishop of Canterbury, the choice of patron saint was no accident. Thomas à Becket was a symbol of resistance against state authority, a sentiment that has always resonated deeply with the fierce, independent spirit of the Pennine hill people.
For nearly six centuries, this building served as the spiritual anchor for the hand-loom weavers of the Calder Valley. Unlike the grand cathedrals of the south, this church was built low and sturdy to withstand the brutal Pennine winters. By the 15th century, it had grown into a complex structure with two naves, two aisles, and two chantry chapels.
However, the very elements it was built to resist eventually became its undoing.
The Storm That Changed Everything
In 1847, a violent storm tore across the hilltop. The gale was so fierce that it ripped the west face of the church tower clean off. Masonry crashed through the roof, causing irreparable damage to the ancient structure.
While the villagers initially tried to patch the wounds of their beloved church, the cost of repair was deemed too high. Instead of rebuilding, the community made a radical decision: they would build a brand-new church right next to the old one. This created the unique sight we see today—two churches standing side-by-side in a single graveyard. The "new" church, St Thomas the Apostle, was completed in 1854, leaving the medieval ruins to become a haunting shell, reclaimed by moss and the open sky.
Beyond the Ruins: A Graveyard of Legends
The churchyard at Heptonstall is legendary in its own right, famously holding the remains of over 100,000 people. Because space was so limited on the steep hillside, gravestones were often recycled, with inscriptions on both sides.
As you wander through the ruins, two specific graves draw visitors from across the globe:
David "King" Hartley: Nestled near the old ruins lies the leader of the Cragg Vale Coiners. In the 18th century, Hartley and his gang "clipped" the edges of gold coins to produce counterfeits, a crime that nearly collapsed the British economy. He was eventually hanged at York in 1770, but remains a local folk hero. Look closely at his headstone; you will often find modern coins left by visitors as a tribute.
Sylvia Plath: In the "new" section of the graveyard across the lane lies the final resting place of the American poet Sylvia Plath. Plath, who was married to local Poet Laureate Ted Hughes, took her own life in 1963. Her grave is a pilgrimage site for writers and fans, often adorned with pens and flowers. The headstone itself tells a story of conflict; the name "Hughes" has been repeatedly chiselled off by fans who blame Ted for her tragic end.
A Screen-Siren Location
If the ruins feel familiar, it might be because they have become a favourite for filmmakers. The atmospheric gritstone and eerie silence of Heptonstall have featured in major productions, including the BBC’s "The Gallows Pole" (which dramatizes the story of the Coiners) and the hit series "Happy Valley." ### Tips for Your Visit If you’re planning to experience this Pennine gem for yourself, here are a few things to keep in mind:
Wear Sturdy Shoes: The graveyard is famously uneven. The flat "pavement" gravestones can be incredibly slippery when wet, and the ground around the ruins is rugged.
Leave the Car Behind: Heptonstall’s cobbled streets are narrow and not designed for modern traffic. Park at the designated Bowling Club car park or, better yet, take the steep, historic walk up "The Buttress" from Hebden Bridge.
Visit the Museum: Located in the old grammar school just across from the ruins, the Heptonstall Museum provides incredible context to the village's weaving history and the Civil War battles fought on these very streets.
The ruins of St Thomas à Becket are more than just a photo opportunity. They are a monument to the endurance of the Yorkshire spirit—a place where the roof has fallen, but the history remains standing tall. Whether you’re a history buff, a literary fan, or a photographer chasing the "Golden Hour," Heptonstall offers a quiet, powerful beauty that stays with you long after you’ve descended back into the valley.